The Recioto
...which distinguishes it from any other.
In
1998 this was the first Veneto wine to obtain DOCG
(Denominazione Controllata e Garantita) classification.
Recioto is a wine with a long history. The existence of a sweet
white wine in the Veronese area, similar to the Recioto di Soave
we know today, was recorded in the 5th century in the famous epistle
of Cassiodoro.
The learned minister of King Teodorico sought the red and white
acinatico (the latter being today’s Recioto di Soave) for
whose production the grapes had to be selected from the “domestic
pergolas”, hanging up in bunches in the fruit cellar until
late winter.
This wine was attractively light-coloured and flawless, and seemed
to be the fruit of lilies. The existence of a sweet white wine in
the Veronese area, similar to the Recioto di Soave we know today,
was recorded in the 5th century in the famous epistle of Cassiodoro.
The learned minister of King Teodorico sought the red and white
acinatico (the latter being today’s Recioto di Soave) among
the Veronese estate owners, for the guests of the royal table; the
grapes for this wine were selected from the “domestic pergolas”
hanging up in bunches in the fruit cellar until late winter.
According to the minister, this wine was so attractively light-coloured
and flawless, that it seemed to be the fruit of lilies.
The acinatico was made from a grape variety known as retica
in those days, and the garganica grape was only mentioned for the
first time in the 14th century, by the Bolognese Pier De Crescenzi;
it then became widespread in the Veronese area and is still predominant
there today.
More specific information about the preparation of “Recioto”
appears in the 18th century from the Marchese Scipione Maffei, who
wrote that “storing grapes until December, pressing gently
in the cold weather and replacing the must, without boiling, keeping
it for some time before handling, is the same approved system we
use now, honouring it with the name “santo”.
A
historical document on the preparation techniques of Recioto di
Soave was left by Giuseppe Beretta in one of his books in 1841:
“By sparkling liquor I mean the wine obtained from naturally
dried grapes which are crushed in a press beginning in winter.
Since it is best to decant and thicken the fine must that appears
free of any bulk and only in small barrels, and in a cool place,
it is left to ferment and without stalks or skins: thus only being
boiled slowly, this wine preserves intact some of the sugary material:
this is the important feature that distinguishes it from all others.
The Veronese dialect the word Recioto derives from “recia”,
the upper part of the bunch of Garganega grapes which is richest
in sugars and most greatly exposed to sunlight. Just before
the harvest a selection is made of the best bunches which are laid
out on racks to dry.
The grapes are constantly supervised and cleaned for four to six
months, until pressing. Long, slow fermentation often takes place
in small barrels. With the new production specification, Recioto
di Soave has a more complex profile and has become a great “vino
da meditazione”. The formation of noble rot on the drying
grapes completes the aroma range and enriches the nose-palate consistency.
Recioto is traditionally served with tea biscuits but the ageing
process also makes it suitable for blue and strong cheeses, fat
liver and all foods which enhance its oiliness. The sweetness in
this case becomes a clear and very enjoyable point of contrast.
The wine is bright yellow in colour with acacia honey on the nose
and floral hints, and a velvety, harmonious, full-bodied and pleasantly
almondy bouquet.
This is an ideal wine for any happy occasion, whether celebrated
alone or in company. Apart from the traditional still version, it
is also available in the sparkling style, which makes an ideal foil
for all the typical pastries of Veronese cuisine.

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